The First Day : Getting Your Bearings
Paris started its prehistoric life along the banks of the Seine river in the Bronze Age. Later, fortified settlements on the islands (now called the Ile St-Louis and l'Ile de la Cite) afforded strategic shelter from unfriendly Barbarians. So the river has always been the heart, the epicenter, of the city. This is where you should begin.

The first day you will probably feel tired and incapable of tackling the metro or bus system, so splurge on a long taxi ride. Show the driver this itinerary: Place de l'Etoile - Champs Elysees - Place de la Concorde - Place Vendome - Opera Garnier - Louvre - Quais Rive Droite all the way to Place de la Bastille - Pont d'Austerlitz - Quais Rive Gauche past Les Invalides all the way to the Eiffel Tower - Trocadero - back to Place de l'Etoile.

During the summer when traffic is light, this 45-minute drive will take you past the major landmarks and many of the museums mentioned in our Landmarks section. With any luck the taxi driver will point them out to you; if not ask him/her what that majestic monument or bridge is - about one a minute. I suggest you follow along using a simple city map to get the lay of the land.

Tour buses also use this loop itinerary, usually a shorter version, but you won't be packed in a bus with earphones squawking and unable to ask questions. Also, the buses make stops at the landmarks for a tour which in your jet-lagged state is not recommended.

In the afternoon if the weather is nice, why not try a Bateau Mouche river boat trip again up and down the river. Or if you're up for a walk, walking the Iles. With both, you'll breathe in the atmosphere of Paris.

For an evening outing, preferably after a quick nap to recharge your batteries, you may want to sample one of our restaurants. If you want a very lively atmosphere, explore the streets lined with small bistrots near the Place de la Contrescarpe (Left Bank, Paris 5), or near Place du Tertre (Montmartre, Paris 18.)

Day Two: Museum Marathon
All right, yesterday we let you off lightly, but today it's 'Go for the Gold!.' Put on your most comfortable shoes because you'll be doing lots of walking - inside.

Start you off with the Louvre, preferably at 9AM just as it opens to beat the crowds. That should keep you occupied until lunchtime, or more if you get lost in the endless corridors of this vast museum. For lunch, why not buy a sandwich along rue de Rivoli and wander into the peaceful Tuileries Gardens to munch it on a park bench under a chestnut tree? If you prefer the terrace of a cafe, try the Cafe Marly, overlooking the Louvre's pyramid.

In the early afternoon,(don't linger at lunch), cross the bridge near the Louvre to the Musee d'Orsay on the Left Bank. Head straight for the fourth floor where you can see all the Impressionists you loved in Art Appreciation class, and a lot of Van Goghs in the current show. If you get footsore and bug-eyed, take a quick rest in the Museum's topside Cafe, which has a splendid view of Paris and no paintings or tour guides.

If you have the strength, try to make it to the Grand Palais and the Jeu de Paume.

One tip not to be overlooked: Invest in a one or two day Museum Pass. Not only does it make financial sense but it gives holders the right to go to the front of the line -- except for some special exhibitions.

By 7 PM you will probably feel maxed-out on culture but still ready for a truly Parisian experience which involves NO walking, only some standing in line for the elevator. We recommend watching the sunset from the top of the Eiffel Tower. On a bright day you can see the Seine coiling through the city, and monuments poking out here and there.

Here's nightfall and time to try another restaurant. Hope you made a reservation! And afterwards, if you're not saturated with heavenly food and wine, we have a long list of discos, jazz clubs and cabarets for you to sample.

Day Three: The Charm of Paris
By now, you are beginning to feel really French. You start off your morning with a croissant and a cup of cafe sur le zinc, contemplating the next step of your total immersion course.

We'll send you off into the oldest section of Paris today, Le Marais, where there are still houses dating back to the 15th century and narrow street that exude charm every inch of the way. Start off by walking up rue Vieille-du-Temple (not to be confused with rue du Temple) all the way to the Hotel de Rohan (No. 87) which is a museum, not a hotel. You can image the clatter of the hooves as a gilt carriage drew up to the entrance!

Down the street at No. 47 is another magnificent building, L'hotel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande, which was not the Dutch Embassy but a 15th century mansion remodeled in the 17th. In fact, it was here that Beaumarchais, who wrote the original Marriage of Figaro that Mozart made famous, lived. He also supplied weapons to the Americans fighting the British. So it will be a sentimental, patriotic journey of sorts, if you're an American.

Around the corner is the Picasso Museum, which will jolt you right back into the 20th century but slowly, because the paintings are housed in the ancient l'Hotel Sale, which has been beautifully restored. Both paintings and building are worth visiting.

By now you are ready for lunch in the Place des Vosges, the most beautiful square in Paris. Stroll under the arcades, relax in the small park. L'Hotel de Sully, just off the Place des Vosges, gives you an idea of what this area must have been like 300 years ago.

After lunch we recommend a quick visit to the Musee Carnavalet, the museum dedicated to the history of Paris, which is filled with priceless antiques. The musem used to be the home of the Marquise de Sevigne, a 17th century writer famous for her letters.

So you are giddy with ornate buildings, gardens and fancy architecture. What next? We recommend for your last evening in Paris an evening in Saint-Germain, the Left Bank area bustling with students and musicians. An evening aperitif at the Cafe des Deux Magots before dining at Les Bouchons de Francois Clerc should end your day of historical exploration.

If this tour has not left you saturated with the charm and majesty of Paris, we give up. Just remember that you've only seen and enjoyed the tip of the iceberg. For your next visit, plan on spending two weeks, or twenty years, and you won't be disappointed.